Last
week, we took a close look at the life of Mattie Williamson, the Glessners’
beloved cook, who served the family from 1892 until her retirement in 1912. In
this article, we will look at the events celebrating her “return” to Glessner
House in early March. The recreation of Mattie was the result of intensive
research into her life here at the house, including an examination of over 100
cookbooks and Frances Glessner’s menu books, combined with detailed knowledge
of historic cooking methods at the turn of the 20th century. Our
deepest thanks to Ellie of ElliePresents, for her dedication in bringing the
character of Mattie to life for all those who had an opportunity to participate
in our special events on March 8th and 12th.
The “modern”
Mattie made her first official appearance at Glessner House on Monday March 2nd
when she arrived (by way of the female servants' entrance) to be interviewed by Lee Ann Trotter, the entertainment reporter
for NBC Chicago. Mattie arrived from the year 1902, stared at the cameraman, and
immediately noted “Is that a motion picture camera . . . fascinating.” She
proceeded to demonstrate how to make savory shortbreads, noting that she always
included a bit of tarragon, which was a favorite of John Glessner.
She then
took Lee Ann on a tour of the house - a special treat, as Mattie would have
rarely ventured outside the kitchen – pointing out such features as the silver
closet in the dining room, and the bookcase in the library where Frances
Glessner kept her cookbooks. Watch the full segment here.
Mattie’s official
debut took place on Sunday March 8th when she led a cooking
demonstration showing all the steps necessary to make both savory and sweet
shortbreads. Attendees enjoyed sampling the shortbreads during the
presentation, and each person received a package with all the ingredients
needed to make their own shortbreads at home.
The
signature event of the week was the meticulous recreation of an eight-course
dinner on Thursday March 12th, based on actual menus recorded by
Frances Glessner. All the recipes were pulled from cookbooks in the collection,
and several recipes, including those for brown bread and gumbo, were in Mattie’s
own handwriting.
As would have been the case in 1902, some of the foods were
prepared well in advance, so that Mattie could focus her efforts on the menu
items that had to be prepared immediately prior to serving, such as the fish
and venison.
Three tables in the dining room were laid with an array of silver
flatware – from oyster forks to gumbo spoons; etched vintage crystal stemware for
water, champagne, and two types of wine; and gold-rimmed china similar to that
used by the Glessner (minus only their beautiful monogram which was used to adorn
the menus). Guests were seated at 6:00pm, at which time the footmen began table
service.
The
dinner began with oysters on the half shell, served by the Glessners at
virtually all of their dinner parties, accompanied by Mattie’s brown bread, and
champagne. The second course featured Mattie’s gumbo, served with sauterne. The
first of the three entrée courses consisted of fillets of white fish, with home
made tartar sauce, olives, pickles, and spiced pickled radishes.
The
fourth course was a macaroni timbale served on an artichoke frond. Timbales,
consisting of ground vegetables and meat set into various molds, were another
favorite of Frances Glessner.
The “main” course which followed included venison
with a dark cherry and port wine compote, served with new potatoes, Brussel
sprouts with chestnuts, and cooked cucumbers (common at the time). Claret was
served with this course.
The sixth
course consisted of tomatoes stuffed with a celery salad. It was typical for the salad course to be served at the conclusion of the meal, prior to
dessert.
After two
hours in the dining room consuming the first six courses, guests headed out the
front door and turned the corner to the coach house, where they were joined by
others who arrived for the two dessert courses and to “meet” Mattie Williamson.
Tables were set with a variety of sweet treats including assorted bon bons,
candied orange peel, and candied pecans, all served with hot tea. Individual
pistachio cakes, a favorite of Frances Glessner, were served with vanilla ice
cream featuring a four-leaf clover embossed design, reminiscent of the
elaborately molded ice cream treats that were a staple of the Glessner table.
Once
everyone had been served, Mattie Williamson, dressed in her “Sunday best,” made
her grand entrance, and spent the next 40 minutes explaining what it was like
to cook for the Glessners, and the elaborate preparations and careful
scheduling required to pull off an eight-course dinner (while also having to
cook and feed the live-in staff of eight). The presentation was videotaped and
will be posted to our YouTube channel soon.
Once
again, our deepest thanks to Ellie for her excellent presentation, and her
outstanding preparation of all the food. The House of Glunz, Chicago wine
merchants since 1888, donated the wines, and Flesor’s Candy Kitchen, established
in 1901 in Tuscola, Illinois provided the delicious bon bons.
Mattie will
return to Glessner House in the future - we hope you will have a chance to meet
her in person!
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